Jamaa El-Fna

Today was our first day of sightseeing and we decided to tale a slow stroll down to the heart of the city, and visit Jamaa El-Fna (pronounced Jam-are El Fana) the main square of Marrakech. To get there we had to walk through the streets of Marrakech which are unsuited to all forms of modern travel, but offers a fascinating insight into the culture.

All along the route we were passing stores dedicated to various foods with a variety of smells - some good, some downright unpleasant - filling our nostrils with a rather unique sensory experience. I admit that I was a little bit put off by the fishmonger who just had his fish on the counter and not chilling on some ice, but I guess that is more a criticism of my European sensibilities than anything wrong - the fish didn't half stink though.....I could imagine a weeks holiday could easily be spent staring at the marble bathroom if you decided to try his delicacies...

It should be said that the locals travel around the narrow streets of the Medina by moped, and they buzz passed you incredibly closely. When in Marrakech it is wise to not make any sudden sideways movements, otherwise you are in real risk of getting hit. That said if you stick to the side of the streets, they are usually skilled enough to swerve past you.

We arrived at Jamaa El-Fna and it was unlike anything I have seen before. The best way to describe it is chaos with snake charmers and henna tattooists thrown into the mix. If you cant imagine that, then think of that scene in Raiders of the Lost Ark, where Indiana Jones shoots the swordsman, and you will have a rough idea of it. The stalls in the middle of the square during the day also seem to focus on selling oranges or water, which made me wonder is there really such a big market for these two items from tourists, or is this what Moroccans subsist on....

The place to come if you want oranges, anything else and you'll be disappointed....

There were people badgering us left, right and centre, and the general rule was if you even glimpsed at them or paused to look at their shops even momentarily you seemingly entered into some unwritten agreement to purchase something from them. I had this sort of experience in Luxor, so was hardened enough to it to just be rude and say no, and they soon lose interest in you. If you are polite then you will be endlessly harangued.

Jamaa El-Fna daytime stylee......organised chaos

I did feel some sympathy for Sarah here. Clearly, when they come here, western girls seem to think that getting a henna tattoo is de rigueur, and so on several occasions Moroccan women came up to Sarah trying to give her a free henna tattoo flower on her arm......at first she was polite, but soon got tired of that approach and was increasingly shirty with them. I stress this is something you have to do, they are not offended by it and indeed expect it most of the time.

The snake charmers were interesting, but Sarah was definitely not happy with one man putting a cobra around my neck and trying to get me to pose for a photo, so we made a hasty retreat to the side streets for a well earned break from the hustle and bustle and had a beer in a restaurant. The local beer is called Casablanca and for a country where alcohol is still not allowed to be consumed on the public streets, is a surprisingly nice bottle of lager!

View of one of the side streets from the square.

After that we decided to make our way back to the riad to relax before heading back out this evening and doing it all again. Jamaa El-Fna is a completely different entity in the daytime compared to the night, when the market stalls are replaced by ad-hoc restaurants. Indeed if the manager of the hotel is correct it gets even more chaotic and busy in the evening than it did during the day!

I would not be a true Englishman if I didn't mention the weather, and so here it is for all of those reading this in the chilly UK (and Ireland). The weather is very pleasant indeed, easily t-shirt and linen trousers temperatures, which made a mockery of my iPad weather app which suggested it might be a bit cooler today. The temperature dropped in the later afternoon, but was still comfortable enough to sit out in light clothes.

There is a slight update to the above paragraph. apparently typing that statement seems to have angered the rain gods and we have had intermittent showers ever since. It is not enough to stop us going out, and the weather is still warmer than in the UK, but i am hoping for sunnier days ahead.